Everyone Loves Perth, Western Australia

I knew two things about Perth before I went to visit. First, the weather is meant to be consistent, and eve better consistently good. (I live in Melbourne, where neither is true.) Second, everybody loves Perth. I have yet to meet someone who has gone to Perth and not liked it. Because people are so crazy about the place, I decided to take their advice about where to go.

Northbridge is the neighborhood just north of the train and bus stations. William Street is lined with virtually every Asian cuisine imaginable: Malaysian, Indian, Chinese, Vietnamese and so on. Looking for some nightlife after dinner? You'll probably hear The Court Hotel before you see it. Located on Beaufort St., The Court is a thumping gay pub hotel. If you're in the mood for something a little more sophisticated, head a block west to Grapeskin, a wine bar with cocktails, wine and coffee, and a variety of food.

I had planned to see the Art Gallery of WA anyway, but my decision to go was confirmed when I read that the Gallery's director is from Maine, just like me. I didn't see the director, but I did see a wonderful collection of Australian art. The Indigenous art gallery is excellent, and the contemporary Australian art collection is also superb. Don't miss the gift shop, either-crammed full of books, cards and other goodies, it has gifts only a museum would sell. The Gallery is in the Perth Cultural Centre, flanked by the Museum of Western Australia, the Perth Institute of Cultural Arts and the library, so if you're in the mood for a whole day of culture, it's located between The Court and Grapeskin.

Subiaco is a neighborhood to the west of central Perth. Rokeby and Hay Streets are full of shops, cafes and galleries. Art lovers will want to visit Hay Street for its galleries. Rokeby St. is a haven for readers, with bookstores about every ten paces. Elizabeth's Bookshop is excellent, with hundreds of virtually new books at a significant markdown. Up the street is Subiaco Bookshop, a bright yellow room jammed full of books. The Subiaco markets are open Thursday to Sunday and have an entertaining array of stalls, with everything from massage to stationery. Sports fans might enjoy the Subiaco Oval, home of the West Coast Eagles, the national champion Aussie Rules football team. Go for a game, have a meat pie, and watch the bone crushing action as men in tiny shorts hurtle into each other for hours on end.

There are people in this world who are born to shop. I am not one of them. Despite the fact that I do the majority of my purchasing online, even I was excited to go to Harbour Town. A circular mall of sorts, Harbour Town is an outlet shopping dream, with Levi's, Esprit, Adidas and Nike stores, among dozens of others. Go in with a plan, otherwise you'll spend hours backtracking and walking around in circles (not that I speak from experience).

The Swan River winds lazily through central Perth, and it's possible to have a cheap meal sitting right on its shores without a picnic basket. Feed your soul and your stomach at Annalakshmi, at Barrack Square. Packed full of families, students, couples and practically anyone you could think of, Annalakshmi serves ever-changing buffet-style Indian food on the north bank of the Swan. Diners queue up and pass through the buffet numerous times before paying what they feel is adequate (generally around $15 AUD). The money goes toward funding cultural arts; to The Temple of Service, free medical and dental clinics in India and Malaysia; and to Shivanjali, sheltered workshops for Indian women and orphans.

What better place to see a movie than in a grove of trees, breathing fresh air, and listening to the sounds of nature around you? Perth offers a plethora of outdoor movie options in the summer, with cinemas at UWA and Edith Cowan Universities, King's Park and the Luna Leederville. I went to the UWA campus and sat in a row of canvas chairs, surrounded by picnickers happily eating olives and drinking wine. With the fresh breezes and the birds singing, it was much romantic than the back row of a Loews.

One of the things that came highly recommended by everyone was a visit to Rottnest Island. Only 18kms from Perth, Rottnest Island is about a half hour's ferry away from the Fremantle pier. With very few cars, the island can be explored by foot-or, preferably, by bike. Bring your own on the ferry or rent one on the island for about $20. Explore and enjoy the freedom from traffic as you pedal through what seems like a summer camp. Tiny cottages are dotted all over the island, with a couple of general stores thrown in for good measure. The island is full of beaches, so bring a cozzie (bathing suit) and some snorkeling gear if you want to see the underwater life. The island is famous for its quokkas, tiny marsupials only found on Rottnest who are not afraid to go for a picnic with you. At the end of the day, have a snack at one of the cafes by the pier while you wait for the ferry.

I'm sure there are things more romantic than eating dinner while watching sun set over the Indian Ocean. I just can't think what they are. The Wild Fig is a restaurant I would never have found on my own. Perched above Perth's northern beaches, the Wild Fig faces the ocean and is glorious at sunset. Equally glorious are its desserts (though the rest of the food is delicious as well). Try the Gooey, a chocolate pudding with vanilla ice cream. Between it and the sunset, you'll never want to leave.

King's Park is a massive oasis smack in the middle of the city. With seemingly endless bushland, the park is also home to the Botanical Gardens, a well-manicured corner above the river. Walk along the boardwalk, looking down on the river, past weddings and fountains and trees.

Finally, Fremantle. About a 20-minute drive from Perth, Fremantle is much more than docks and ships. However, down by the boats is one of the city's most famous landmarks: Little Creatures. A mammoth brewery and restaurant, Little Creatures is famous for its pale ale, and serves tapas-style food for about $15. Not far from Little Creatures is Indigenart, a gallery full of Aboriginal works. Much of the art is bold and expensive, but investigate the prints in the back, which are cheaper but just as beautiful. A veritable maze of streets in the center of town winds through shops and cafes, and on Fridays and weekends, to the markets. The Fremantle markets are some of the best public markets I've seen, with stunning fruits and vegetables, a delicious-smelling food court, clothes, shoes, and on and on...

I left Perth exhausted but invigorated, feeling that I should have stayed longer, but that I had crammed as much as possible into my time there. The one thing I was not told, nor did I expect from Perth was the people, who were the kindest and most friendly I have seen in Australia. From drug store employees to hotel clerks, everyone I met was polite and helpful, and they ended up being as memorable as everything else I saw.